PERU: LIMA - CUSCO BY ROAD (Chapter I)  
     
 

Lima-Nasca
After reviewing a little the alternatives, we decided to take the route via Nasca and Abancay, and not to stop overnight in Nasca but past Puquio. So, not without some effort, we set off early in the morning. The idea was to get to Nasca at about 10:30 / 11:00 a.m., after travelling for about five hours, and have time to visit Cahuachi (located about 40 minutes from the city), and then, after lunch, leave for the hotel where we would stay that night.

To our surprise the road signs for Cahuachi are still inefficient, so instead of taking the exit at kilometre 457, we took it at the first sign indicating the entrance to the archaeological site (km 453). Big mistake! The signposting outside the Panamericana Highway is non-existent at that point. The only reliable signposting is at the exit at kilometre 457, after travelling a few miles inland towards the desired destination. However we only realised that after driving in circles for two hours and not reaching our destination.

In fact we learned that the best option is to leave Lima planning to stay overnight in Nasca. This would not have obliged us to skip Cahuachi as we did not know the way. Of course, even better is to have the correct information...

If you plan to stay overnight in Nasca, you can take advantage and get to know a little more of the area and in the morning, before leaving for Puquio, you can fly over the famous lines and then, more calmly, continue on your journey.
The truth is, after the disappointment, we decided to have lunch in the Majoro Hotel, a pleasant countryside establishment located at kilometre 453 of the Panamericana Sur.

Nasca-Sacred Valley
The trip to the Hotel Tampumayu, located at kilometer 345 of the road which begins in Nasca and goes to Abancay, has amazing landscapes. In the route there are two high mountain passes, the Condorsencca mountain pass (4330 metres above sea level) between Nasca and Puquio and the Occe Occe mountain pass (4400 metres above sea level) between Puquio and Chalhuanca.

  
     
 
 
 

From Nasca you get to Pampa Galeras National Reserve, which is dedicated to the protection and conservation of the vicuña. Along the road you can see landscapes of singular beauty, plateaus inhabited by alpacas and vicuñas, high Andean lagoons and picturesque Andean valleys. In one of these valleys is the Hotel and Restaurant Tampumayu, where we spent the night, after having a meal of homemade food.
  
     
 
 
 

Following the route to Cusco, we set off from the hotel towards the city of Abancay. Our itinerary took us directly from the Hotel Tampumayu to the Sacred Valley, but not before getting lost due to the still insufficient road signs that was aggravated by the directions of the locals who thought we wanted to reach the valley via a non-traditional route, which led us up the mountains, through trails, until we reached our destination. Had it not been for this set of circumstances, from Anta we would have passed through Chinchero to visit the typical market that opens on Sunday (which was the day of our trip), all along paved roads (but without such ¨emotion¨ and adventure).

In the Valley, more precisely in Urubamba, we stayed at the Río Sagrado  Hotel opened not long ago and which recently became part of the Orient Express portfolio in Peru. Its design allowed the 21 suites -all with terraces and private gardens- and 2 villas to have, without exception, a priceless view of the river with the majestic background of the mountains. Moreover, all bathroom showers, except for only one of them, share that same privilege. This is certainly, if not the most luxurious hotel in the valley, one of the most luxurious there today.
  
     
 
 
     
 
 
 


Its Mayu Wilka Spa offers a treatment, relaxation and beauty centre, based on, since Inca times, the healing and relaxing power of natural herbs.

The world renowned Peruvian cuisine stands out in the kitchen of this hotel, in the restaurant of fusion food «El Huerto¨, which grows a variety of organic vegetables, spices and fruits in a plot within the property, where the culinary arts enthusiast may even handpick or select the ingredients from the organic garden. Among the starters, what caught my attention were the crispy fillings of shellfish, cheese and vegetables from the garden accompanied by a cream of peppers from the region and a mayonnaise flavoured with huacatay.

The main dishes that stand out are the caviar ravioli made of organic aubergine and zucchini with mushrooms ragout and rustic pesto cream, the shellfish in ginger and lemongrass butter on homemade sweet potato raviolinis and the king prawns grilled with home gathered honey accompanied by rustic purée of Andean tubers flavoured with tarragon. They can satisfy the most sophisticated gourmet. The menu finishes, as expected, with the desserts, among which I cannot fail to mention the passion fruit flake, with the delicate aromas of tropical fruit grown at home and the custard apple tulip in soft cream decorated with fruits of the region.

Trip to Machupicchu
Early next day we took the train to Machu Picchu town (Aguas Calientes). We were fortunate to travel on the «Special Service» of PeruRail, leaving from Ollantaytambo, which we had not planned. This service uses similar carriages to the Hiram Bingham and, like that famous train, has a first class service. During the trip we enjoyed the scenery that changes appearance as we descend.


  
 
 
     
 
 
 

We decided to spend the first day in the village of Machu Picchu, walking around and, of course, shopping at the handicraft market (especially the ladies). I noticed the positive change of the town (traditionally chaotic, messy). While still far from being «admirable», it is nevertheless «picturesque» and has its appeal. The main street, pedestrian like all, except the one that borders the river, now looks better than a couple of years ago, when I last visited the place. It offers the largest gastronomic variety in town, made up of a broad spectrum that ranges from traditional pizza to typical Chinese and Italian food.... Of course, you can find prices for all budgets.
  
     
 
 
 

One restaurant that stands out is Cafe Inkaterra, located at the foot of the famous luxury hotel chain in a building that recalls those built by the Indians of the Peruvian jungle. It offers a set menu with various options for starters, main courses, desserts and teas. The starters include natural fruit juice, basket of Andean tubers and soup or green salad. Main dishes, all accompanied by Solterito, roast potatoes, sautéed vegetables and quinoa, ranging from Andean trout with fresh herbs and chicken roasted with rosemary, to tenderloin on the grill and alpaca brochettes seasoned with aji panca. Of the desserts, the ones I would recommend (without belittling the other alternatives) are the chocolate cake with homemade ice cream and aguaymantos and the ricotta cheese cake with fruit compote and fruit coulis.

We stayed at the Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel, the only five star hotel in the area. Its 60 rooms have alpaca fiber blankets, 100% cotton sheets, cable TV, national / international direct dial, heating, electronic safe box, 110v / 220v voltage connections, bathrooms with tub and Spanish shower, hair-dryer, blackout roll-ups, fire alarm, soundproof windows and minibar.
  
     
 
 
     
 
 
 

The Aqlla Spa allows guests to forget the stress and imbalance, to enter a world of pleasurable reinvigoration. It offers massage, sauna and spa treatments as well as a manicure and pedicure salon, surrounded by soothing sounds and colours, aromatic scent fragrances.
In this hotel, Peruvian cuisine is creatively presented by Chef Rafael Piqueras, who brings five-star flair to traditional causa and ceviche, while inventing innovative new dishes such as cream of pumpkin soup topped with a porcini mushroom foam, or slow-cooked osobuco (bonemarrow) with sweet potato gnocchi.
  
 
 
 
 
 

After an excellent breakfast, not too early, to avoid the bustle of tourists who struggle to reach the sanctuary as early as possible, we went to Machu Picchu, a place that I have already visited countless times and never fails to amaze me. Amid a swarm of tourists we did a tour that was neither too extensive nor too fast. The routes that you can take are clearly signposted and tourists can choose between the longer, the intermediate or shorter ones, depending on their time (and fitness). In my opinion, the best time to make a visit, if you wish to escape the crowds, is after midday, when most tourists are looking for a revitalizing lunch. Of course, watching the sunrise illuminating the site is priceless, for which you must make the sacrifice of getting up early and sharing the precious scene with hundreds of tourists who wait for the first rays to caress the stones. To be continue...